This page sells air-injection sulfur filters for private wells with a rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulfide) and helps you choose one. Where you smell it decides: cold and hot at every tap usually means the well, which a sulfur filter treats; hot water only usually means the water heater's anode rod, a plumber's fix, not a filter; one sink only usually means that drain. Each filter is a Fleck 2510 AiQ air-injection valve with Katalox Light media, rated to remove up to 10 ppm hydrogen sulfide, 30 ppm iron and 15 ppm manganese with no chemicals and no salt; it works best near pH 8. Four sizes: 1.5 cu ft ($2,095, about 2 to 4 people with lower iron, up to 10 GPM), 2.0 cu ft ($2,295, more flow than the 1.5, up to 14 GPM), 2.5 cu ft ($2,495, 4 to 10 people, up to 17 GPM, the size most homes buy) and 3.5 cu ft ($3,295, irrigation and the house on one well or more than 10 people, up to 20 GPM). The 4-stage system ($4,495) adds a sediment filter, a carbon tank and a VIQUA VH410 UV light for wells with coliform bacteria too. Under about 1 ppm a carbon filter can work; above 10 ppm the fix is chlorine or peroxide fed into the water, which we do not sell. A water softener does not remove the smell; the sulfur filter goes ahead of it. Every tank ships empty; the Katalox Light comes in separate bags or boxes and is loaded at install; no drain line is included. A licensed plumber is recommended (typically 2 to 3 hours, about $800), and Aidan supports your plumber by phone. Free shipping to the lower 48 states. Co-owner Aidan (32 years in this business) sizes the filter free from your test. Call 800-460-5810 or text Aidan at 443-277-2204.
By Aidan· 32-year water expert, Mid Atlantic Water ·
A rotten egg smell in well water is hydrogen sulfide gas. When the cold water smells too, the gas is usually coming from the well, and one air-injection tank takes it out at every tap. The Fleck 2510 AiQ valve keeps a pocket of air at the top of the tank, and the Katalox Light below pulls the sulfur out and rinses it to the drain. No chemicals, no salt. Every size is rated to remove up to 10 ppm (parts per million) of hydrogen sulfide, 30 ppm of iron and 15 ppm of manganese. If only the hot water smells, the cause is usually the water heater, and a filter will not fix it. Send Aidan your test and he sizes it free. He explains the filter in a short video, and our rotten egg smell guide covers the common causes.
Removes the rotten egg smell, up to 10 ppm
No chlorine, no peroxide, no salt
Katalox Light catalytic media
Fleck 2510 AiQ air-injection valve
Free shipping to the lower 48 states
Free sizing with Aidan
Smell the cold tap first. Let the water sit a few hours, then smell the cold and the hot separately. Both smell: usually the well, and a sulfur filter fixes it. Only the hot: usually the water heater's anode rod, a plumber's fix. Only one sink: usually that sink's drain.
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Air-Injection Sulfur Filters for the Rotten Egg Smell
One tank that takes the rotten egg smell out at every tap. Each size is a Fleck 2510 AiQ air-injection valve on a tank of Katalox Light media. Every size is rated to 10 ppm hydrogen sulfide, 30 ppm iron and 15 ppm manganese, with no chemicals and no salt. Four sizes, $2,095 to $3,295. A bigger tank serves more people and more flow. It does not remove more sulfur. Most homes buy the 2.5.
For a smell from the well plus coliform bacteria on the well test. Four stages in one package: a 20 inch sediment filter, the 2.5 cu ft sulfur and iron filter, a Clack 2.5 non-backwashing carbon tank, and a VIQUA VH410 UV light last. The UV light kills the bacteria. The sulfur filter does not.
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Side by side
Five fixes compared
Five things people try for a rotten egg smell, and what each one does. Where you smell it and your sulfur level decide.
When to use it
Removes the smell
Upkeep
Cost
Air-injection filter (ours)
A smell from the well, up to 10 ppm, with or without iron
Yes, up to 10 ppm, plus iron and manganese
Nothing to add: air does the work
$2,095 to $3,295
Carbon filter
A light, musty smell under about 1 ppm
At low levels, until the carbon runs out
New carbon when it runs out
Clack 2.5 tank: $1,695
Chlorine or peroxide feed
Above 10 ppm
Yes, then the water is filtered
Chlorine or peroxide, a tank you refill every month
We do not sell these
Water softener
Hard water only
No
Salt
Not a fix for the smell
New anode rod (water heater)
A smell in the hot water only
Yes, for a hot-only smell
Chlorine to clean the tank
A plumber's job
Ten parts per million is a lot of sulfur. As Aidan told a caller who did not know his number: "you don't have anywhere near 10 because when you get to 1 to 2, it blows you out of the house." A test puts a number on it before you choose.
Pouring bleach down the well is not on this list: it kills the smell for maybe a day, then it comes back. Prices checked against our store on October 5, 2026.
Step 1: Find your problem
Where do you smell it?
A rotten egg smell has three common sources, and where you smell it tells you which. Let the water sit a few hours, then smell the cold and the hot separately. Only one of the three needs a filter.
Cold and hot taps both smell
When the cold water smells as well as the hot, the hydrogen sulfide is usually coming from the well. That is what a sulfur filter treats, up to 10 ppm, at every tap in the house.
→YESA sulfur filter fixes this
Smell only in the hot water
If the cold water smells fine, the smell is usually being made inside the water heater: bacteria in the tank turn sulfate in the water into hydrogen sulfide, and the magnesium anode rod feeds the reaction. A whole-house filter will not fix it. A plumber replaces the rod with an aluminum or zinc one, then chlorinates the tank.
→NOAnode rod, not a filter
Smell at only one sink
Usually that drain, not the water. Fill a glass at that sink, carry it to another room and smell it. If the water smells fine, clean the drain stopper and the faucet aerator and flush the P-trap with a household bleach solution.
Every size is rated the same: 10 ppm hydrogen sulfide, 30 ppm iron and 15 ppm manganese. A bigger tank serves more people and more flow. It also needs more water from the well to backwash. It does not remove more sulfur. Most homes buy the 2.5.
Each size is rated to 10 ppm of hydrogen sulfide, plus 30 ppm iron and 15 ppm manganese. Under about 1 ppm, a light musty smell, a carbon filter can do it, but the carbon wears out sooner on sulfur. Above 10 ppm, the fix is chlorine or peroxide fed into the water, then filtered. A lab test gives you the number.
Backwash water from your well
The tank rinses itself to the drain on a schedule (it ships set to every day), and the well has to keep up: about 5 gallons a minute for the 1.5, 7 to 8 for the 2.0, 10 for the 2.5 and 12 to 15 for the 3.5. On a weaker well, Aidan can lengthen the backwash instead. Tell him your well's output before you order.
Call 800-460-5810 during the install and Aidan supports your plumber by phone. We recommend a licensed plumber. What ships: the tank (empty), the Fleck 2510 AiQ control valve with its bypass valve, a fill funnel, and the Katalox Light in separate bags or boxes, which is loaded into the tank at install. Drain tubing is not included; your plumber sizes it. It is one tank, with water in, water out, a drain line and a power outlet, and it goes ahead of any water softener.
2 to 3 hrs
Typical plumber time for one tank. A standard install usually runs about $800.
Plug-in
A standard outlet. The valve plugs in. No compressor and no chemical pump.
Free
Phone support. Aidan talks your plumber through the setup.
What to have ready
Shut-offs on the main lineInlet and outlet on the main line after the well pressure tank. The valve comes with a bypass, so the tank can be taken out of service without shutting off the house. Your plumber supplies the pipe adapters.
A drain within reachThe tank rinses what it catches to a drain: a floor drain, utility sink or standpipe. No drain line ships. Your plumber sizes it for the backwash and the length of the run, and ends it above the drain with an air gap.
A standard outletThe Fleck 2510 AiQ plugs into an outlet near the tank. Keep the equipment where it cannot freeze.
Room over the tankA solid, level floor and room above the tank to load the media through the top. The tanks are 52 to 65 inches tall before the valve goes on; each size is in the chart above.
A well that covers the backwashAbout 5 gallons a minute for the 1.5, 7 to 8 for the 2.0, 10 for the 2.5 and 12 to 15 for the 3.5. Tell Aidan your well's output and he confirms the match before you order.
What your plumber does
Set the tank after the well pressure tank (and a sediment filter, if you have one) and ahead of any water softener. A carbon tank, if you add one, goes after the softener, and UV goes last. If your pH is low, an acid neutralizer goes in too, and Aidan sets its place from your test.
Level the tank on a solid floor.
Cover the top of the center tube, then pour the Katalox Light into the tank through the fill funnel.
Put the valve on the tank and plumb the inlet and outlet through the bypass valve. Both are marked with arrows.
Run the drain line to the drain with an air gap.
Plug in the valve. It comes preset for the filter: set the date and time and leave the rest. If the screen asks setup questions instead, call or text Aidan before choosing anything.
Fill the tank with water slowly, since full blast traps air in the tank. Let it rinse, run a backwash or two, and check every connection for leaks.
Cloudy water in the first days is tiny air bubbles and clears on its own. Black specks or chalky water are media dust and clear with use, in about a week.
Show your plumber what's going in. The system builder draws your systems in installation order, from the well to the house. Send it to your plumber before install day.
Reviews are collected by Stamped.io, a third-party review service that emails customers after their order. Stamped does not let us edit a review’s words or star rating.
★★★★★
Produces The Best Crystal Clear Water
We see, feel and smell the difference that night. Amazing how clean our water was immediately. No more RUST STAINS!!!!
KS
Keith S., United States
Verified Buyer
2.5 cu ft iron and sulfur filter · July 2026
★★★★★
Huge difference so far
Turned undrinkably ferrous well water clean and clear with no odor or evidence of bacteria. So far so good after a couple weeks of consistent use and no noticeable drop in flow or pressure.
A
Anonymous, United States
Verified Buyer
3.5 cu ft iron and sulfur filter · March 2025
★★★★★
The filter works as advertised - immediately noticed vast improvement of smell/taste of water. No more stains/orange toilet bowls. Milky bubbles after backwash and impacts to pH were as noted.
One note: the inlet and outlet to the bypass valve are close together, meaning you can't install unions side-by-side.
A
Anonymous, United States
Verified Buyer
2.5 cu ft iron and sulfur filter · December 2025
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
Yes. Hydrogen sulfide is a gas, so an ordinary sediment filter cannot catch it: it has to be turned into a solid, soaked up by carbon, or let out into the air. An air-injection filter uses air. The Fleck 2510 AiQ keeps a pocket of air at the top of the tank, and the Katalox Light below pulls the sulfur out and holds it until the tank backwashes it to the drain. Every size is rated to 10 ppm of hydrogen sulfide, plus 30 ppm iron and 15 ppm manganese.
Find where it comes from first. Let the water sit a few hours, then smell the cold and the hot separately. Cold and hot both: usually the well, and a whole-house filter sized to your level takes it out. Under about 1 ppm, a carbon filter. Up to 10 ppm, an air-injection filter. Above 10 ppm, chlorine or peroxide fed into the water, then filtered. Hot only: usually the water heater's anode rod, a plumber's fix. One sink only: usually that drain. Pouring bleach down the well kills the smell for maybe a day, then it comes back.
In the water, at levels you can smell, it is a nuisance, not a health threat: Penn State Extension explains that it makes water undrinkable long before it reaches harmful levels. Test anyway. In rare cases the gas comes from sewage or other pollution, so the Minnesota Department of Health says to test for coliform bacteria and nitrate. Hydrogen sulfide also corrodes metal plumbing and leaves black stains on silverware and fixtures.
It depends on your level. Under about 1 ppm, a light, musty smell: a carbon filter, which wears out sooner on sulfur. From 1 to 10 ppm, rotten eggs: an air-injection filter with Katalox Light, with no chemicals. Above 10 ppm: chlorine or peroxide fed into the water, then filtered. A water softener does not remove it. A hydrogen sulfide test gives you the number.
Running the water clears it for a while at most. If a strong smell at both taps goes away after the water runs, or comes and goes, the Vermont Department of Health says sulfur bacteria in the well or plumbing are the likely cause, and the smell is back once the water sits again. Find the source instead: the well (cold and hot), the water heater (hot only) or one drain (one sink), and fix that.
Because the smell is usually being made inside the water heater. Bacteria in the tank turn sulfate in the water into hydrogen sulfide gas, and the tank's magnesium anode rod feeds the reaction. The cold taps never pass through the tank, so they smell fine. A water softener, well water or water left sitting makes it more likely. The fix is a plumber's: replace the magnesium rod with an aluminum or zinc one, then chlorinate the tank. Do not just take the rod out and leave the heater without one: Penn State Extension says that can shorten the heater's life and will likely void its warranty. A whole-house filter will not fix it.
No. A softener swaps calcium and magnesium for sodium on its resin. Hydrogen sulfide is a dissolved gas, and a softener has no air, no oxidizing media and no way to rinse sulfur to the drain, so the smell comes through. High levels can foul the resin. On a hard, smelly well, the sulfur filter goes ahead of the softener. If the smell started after a softener went in, put the softener in bypass and smell the cold water: if the smell goes away, the softener is the source.
It can work on a light, musty smell under about 1 ppm, but the carbon wears out sooner on sulfur, and once it is used up it can put the sulfur back, so the smell gets worse than before. A rotten egg smell, or sulfur with iron, goes to the air-injection filter. If you add a carbon tank on a well, it goes after the softener.
On a well, the gas is made underground by sulfur bacteria and decaying vegetation. The Minnesota and Vermont health departments say the bacteria themselves are not harmful. Pouring bleach down the well kills the smell for maybe a day, then it comes back. The filter takes out the gas the bacteria make. Coliform bacteria are a separate question: the Well Water Test checks for them, and a UV light treats them.
Yes. The filter works best near pH 8. If yours is lower, send Aidan your test before you order. If your pH is low, an acid neutralizer goes in too, and Aidan sets its place from your test.
Very little. There are no chemicals, no salt and no cartridges. The valve ships set to backwash every day, can be set to less, and draws in fresh air each time. The Katalox Light lasts about 6 to 8 years before it is replaced: about $875 of media on the 2.5 and about $550 on the 1.5 at today's prices.
Then an air-injection filter is the wrong tool. Above 10 ppm the fix is chlorine or peroxide pumped into the water and then filtered, with a chemical tank you refill every month. We do not sell those systems. Ten ppm is a lot of sulfur, so test before you decide: send Aidan the number and he tells you whether a filter fits. Call 800-460-5810 or text Aidan at 443-277-2204.
Tell Aidan where you smell it and paste your test. He replies with the right fix (which size, the 4-stage system, or a new anode rod if only the hot water smells) and install notes for your layout.
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