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Sediment Filters for Well Water: The Complete Guide

Aidan Walsh
Aidan Walsh 32 years in water treatment
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A sediment filter goes right after your well tank and before your first water treatment system. That is the whole answer to where it goes, and it is the same whether the next tank in line is an acid neutralizer, an iron filter or a softener. This page is the long version: the order every piece of equipment goes in, why nothing goes ahead of the pressure tank, how a cartridge and a spin-down screen actually stop sediment, and how to tell whether you need one when you already have a system.

The 20 inch Big Blue sediment filter kit: blue housing with black cap, white 5 micron cartridge, wall bracket and the housing wrench

Caller "Okay. So the Big Blue before the pressure tank?"

Aidan

Aidan "No, after the pressure tank. This is all after."

A Florida caller this July, on an artesian well with a softener, about to add an iron filter. Everything below is the long version of that answer.

Quick Answer

There are three types of sediment filters for well water, and each one serves a different purpose. All three go after the well tank. None of them go between the pump and the tank.

  1. Where it goes. Right after your well tank and before your first treatment tank. Water passes through the 5 micron cartridge, the sediment stays in the cartridge, and clean water goes on to the neutralizer, iron filter or softener. See where the sediment filter goes.
  2. Which filter in which spot. The 5 micron Big Blue cartridge is first in line after the tank. A Rusco spin-down screen goes last, after the treatment tanks, to catch any media the tanks let past. Nothing we sell goes ahead of the pressure tank. See the spin-down screen goes last.
  3. Where in the house. Indoors, on the main cold water line after the tank, standing upright, with room underneath for the wrench or a bucket. Installation steps are in how to install a sediment filter.
  4. How it works. A sediment filter is a strainer. It only catches solid bits. Dissolved iron, hardness, low pH and bacteria pass straight through it. See how a sediment filter works.

Current prices for every one of the sediment filters we sell are on one page: the 10 inch Big Blue kit is $165, the 20 inch kit is $195, the standard Rusco spin-down is $145.

Where the sediment filter goes

Every filter goes after the well tank. The 5 micron Big Blue is first, your treatment tanks come next, and the Rusco spin-down screen goes last. Water comes up from the pump into the pressure tank, and everything that cleans it sits downstream of that tank on the line into the house.

Order of equipment on a well, left to right: well tank, then the 20 inch Big Blue with its 5 micron cartridge, then a treatment tank such as a neutralizer or softener, then the Rusco spin-down screen last
Water leaves the well tank, goes through the Big Blue, then the treatment tanks, then the spin-down screen. Tap to enlarge.

The Big Blue goes right after the tank

The Big Blue mounts to the wall next to your well tank. If you are putting in an acid neutralizer, the Big Blue goes in first after the tank; water passes through the 5 micron cartridge inside, the cartridge traps the sediment, and then the water goes to the neutralizer and on to the rest of the house. I put it this way in the video below, and it is what I tell people on the phone. A caller in March with pH 6 water and 4 people in the house asked whether to run a spin-down as well as the Big Blue, and I told him to put the Big Blue first because it gives good flow rates and plenty of capacity, then the neutralizer, then the softener, then the spin-down, and his UV light last.

The cartridge is the filter here, not the blue housing. The 10 inch and 20 inch kits both ship with a 5 micron polyspun cartridge; which housing size fits your house is covered in the Big Blue housing guide, and which micron rating to run is covered in sediment filter micron ratings.

Why nothing goes before the pressure tank

A filter between the pump and the pressure tank puts the pressure switch on the wrong side of the filter. Boshart, a well-tank fitting manufacturer, spell out what happens: as the cartridge loads with sediment it clogs, the pump keeps pumping against the clog, and the switch, sitting after the filter, never sees that pressure and never tells the pump to shut off. Constant running at full pressure eventually destroys the pump and can damage the filter. Their conclusion is one line: sediment filters should always be installed after the pressure tank. The catalog for the Rusco we ship says the same thing: do not install it on the suction side of a pump.

On the phone I say it shorter. A Virginia caller in May with orange iron sediment asked about putting something ahead of his tank, and I told him you cannot put anything before the pressure tank because it slows the flow down and you get less pressure. The pressure tank also has to sit ahead of the treatment tanks, because a backwashing tank needs pressure to backwash.

The spin-down screen filter goes last

The Rusco spin-down we sell carries a 60 mesh screen, which Rusco rate at about 250 microns. That is 50 times coarser than the 5 micron cartridge, so it does a different job: it sits after the treatment tanks and catches any media the tanks let past, so it never reaches your plumbing. The March caller's Rusco went between his softener and his UV light. A city-water customer in January planning a softener asked whether he needed a screen at the end in case resin escaped, and I told him probably half of our customers put a spin-down after the system to trap anything. When you can see sediment in the clear bowl, you put a bucket under it, open the red-handled valve, and household pressure flushes it out in about 2 seconds.

How the screen itself works, the two sizes and what each mesh catches are in the spin-down filter guide. If the question is which type to buy rather than where it goes, read cartridge vs spin-down vs backwashing tank.

Heavy iron changes where it goes

Heavy iron means the iron filter goes first. With very heavy iron, a 5 micron cartridge ahead of the iron filter clogs fast. An Idaho caller this month with about 15.7 ppm iron had several small cartridge filters on the line that were slowing his flow. I told him to take them out, put the iron filter first and let it capture the sediment and backwash it out, then put his cartridges after the iron filter to catch anything super fine, then the softener, then the UV. I told him the Katalox Light media in the iron filter removes sediment down to 3 microns, which is finer than the 5 micron cartridge. I gave a California caller with about 9.8 ppm iron the same order: that much iron is going to clog a cartridge type filter pretty quickly, so the iron filter goes first, and if he wanted a sediment filter at all, after the iron filter. This is the exception, not the rule. At ordinary iron levels the order in the figure above stands.

How a sediment filter works

A sediment filter is a strainer: water passes through a cartridge or a screen, and any particle bigger than the openings stays behind. Rusco put the rating this way: a 150 micron rated filter will not allow anything larger than 150 microns to pass through. That is all a sediment filter does. Dissolved iron, dissolved manganese, hardness, low pH, chlorine taste, bacteria and cysts are not mechanical sediment, and a sediment cartridge cannot remove them; those need the tank behind the filter.

Filter How it stops sediment How you clean it Price
20 inch Big Blue sediment filter kit
Big Blue cartridge filter (5 micron)
Water passes through the cartridge and the dirt stays in the cartridge. Pentek rate it 5 micron nominal from their own testing. You replace the cartridge. Shut the water off, relieve the pressure, take the housing off with the wrench, drop in a new one. $45 for the 10 inch, $55 for the 20 inch. $165 (10 inch kit), $195 (20 inch kit)
Standard Rusco spin-down filter with clear bowl and red flush valve
Rusco spin-down screen filter (flushes clean)
Water spins around a screen inside a clear bowl. The dirt drops to the bottom of the bowl where you can see it. The screen openings are about 250 microns (60 mesh). Put a bucket under it, open the red-handled valve, and household pressure blows the sediment out in about 2 seconds. Nothing to buy. $145 (1 inch), $249 (2 inch)
Fleck 2510SXT backwashing sediment filter, a tall black tank with a control valve on top
Backwashing sediment tank (rinses itself)
A tall tank, the same size as an acid neutralizer, filled with 2 cubic feet of Turbidex media. The media bed traps the dirt. The Fleck 2510SXT valve backwashes the media and sends the dirt down a drain line. It needs a drain and an electrical outlet. Drain tubing is not included. $1,895

Five microns is small. The average human hair is about 70 microns across, so the 5 micron cartridge is stopping particles 14 times smaller than a hair. That is why the 5 micron cartridge goes ahead of your equipment, and the coarser screen goes after it to catch media the tanks let past.

How small 5 microns is, drawn to scale against a human hair, Giardia and Cryptosporidium cysts and the 60 mesh spin-down screen opening
How small 5 microns is, next to a human hair and the spin-down screen, drawn to scale. Tap to enlarge.

The backwashing tank is for the well where sediment is clogging the inlets to the faucets and the washing machine, the kind of load that has you changing a cartridge weekly. For a toilet tank with some dirt in it, a standard 5 micron cartridge is usually enough. I go through all three in the video.

Do you still need a sediment filter

Take the lid off the toilet tank in the bathroom you use most. If you see dirt and sediment in there, it is getting past your system, and you need a sediment filter ahead of it. That is the check I give people who ask whether they really need one when they already have a neutralizer or a softener.

Here is what happens without one. If you install an acid neutralizer with a fair amount of sediment in the water, that sediment gets into the neutralizer and works its way to the bottom over time. Then when you add more calcite, the new calcite compresses the sediment already in the tank and slows or shuts down your water flow. The same grit wears the control valve: a commercial customer in June with about 7 ppm iron asked whether the 5 micron cartridge would clog, and I told him we have found it is a good idea to trap the sediment before it gets into the head, so you get longer life out of the control valve.

If the sediment you are seeing is sand or grit at the tap, sand and sediment in well water covers what it means about the well itself. If the water is cloudy or milky rather than gritty, start with cloudy well water. Sizing by pump, flow and sediment kind is in how to choose a sediment filter, and how every other piece of equipment fits together is in the well water filtration guide.

Aidan, Mid Atlantic Water
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Send a picture of the well tank and whatever is on the line now, and tell me what the water test shows. I will tell you what goes where and in what order.

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What buyers wrote after installing one

These are verified purchases from our store, written by the buyers, newest first. Reviewer names appear as the buyers wrote them.

Buyer What they bought What they wrote
Gregory R., Feb 2025 Verified buyer 20 inch Big Blue kit "Installed fairly easy. Looking forward to it taking the sediment issues away from my home well system. I should have installed this item years ago."
Anonymous, Jul 2024 Verified buyer 20 inch Big Blue kit "Worked out great, easy install."
Anonymous, Mar 2023 Verified buyer Sediment filter plus a Clack acid neutralizer "After having the water tested I found that it is acidic (pH 6) and showed some turbidity. After researching solutions I ordered a sediment filter and the Clack Neutralizer. Installation was very straightforward."
John M., Mar 2020 Verified buyer Clack acid neutralizer with a Big Blue ahead of it "very reliable. Like the vortex plate vs gravel. Have a 4 x 48" big blue 5 micron filter before the inlet."
Stephen S., Mar 2020 Verified buyer Standard Rusco spin-down screen filter "There is no filtration media to replace -- simply open the ball valve to flush out the collected sediment. But be careful, because there is a surprising amount of pressure when you open the valve. It is probably best to run a hose from the valve down to your sump."

Frequently asked questions

Does a sediment filter go before or after a water softener?

The Big Blue goes before the softener. The 5 micron cartridge sits after the well tank and ahead of the softener, the neutralizer and the iron filter, to trap the sediment before it reaches their control valves. A spin-down screen can go after the softener to catch any resin the tank lets past; a caller in March put his Rusco between the softener and his UV light.

Should the filter be before or after the pump?

Put it after the pressure tank, never between the pump and the tank. A filter between the pump and the tank blinds the pressure switch, and a clogged cartridge in that spot can run the pump until it fails. The catalog for the Rusco we ship also says not to install it on the suction side of a pump.

Can you install a sediment filter sideways?

No. Both have to stand up straight. The Rusco spins the water and forces the sediment down into the bottom of the clear bowl, so the bowl has to hang down for the sediment to collect where the flush valve is. The Big Blue mounts to the wall on its bracket, and the included wrench takes the housing off when the cartridge is replaced.

How often do sediment filters need to be changed?

Usually every 4 to 6 months for the Big Blue cartridge. It depends on how much sediment is in the water: it could be every 12 months, it could be every other month, and with heavy sediment it can be weekly. The Rusco screen is not changed; you flush the bowl whenever you can see sediment in it. Which cartridge and micron rating to buy is covered in sediment filter micron ratings.

Can you clean and reuse a sediment filter?

Replace the Big Blue cartridge rather than wash it. People ask me whether they can wash it off and reuse it, and I tell them you can do whatever you want to, but we recommend you replace the cartridge when it becomes dirty. The Rusco is the reusable one: flushing clears the bowl, and the polyester screen comes out and rinses.

How much does a whole house sediment filter typically cost?

They run from $145 to $1,895. The 10 inch Big Blue kit we sell is $165 and the 20 inch kit is $195; a replacement 5 micron cartridge is $45 for the 10 inch and $55 for the 20 inch. The standard Rusco spin-down is $145 and the large 2 inch Rusco is $249, with no cartridge cost. The backwashing sediment tank is $1,895. Current prices for all of them are on the sediment filters page.

Aidan Walsh
About the author

Aidan Walsh

Co-owner & Residential Water Treatment Specialist, Mid Atlantic Water

Aidan Walsh has spent 32 years in residential water treatment, the first stretch of it installing and servicing well systems before Mid Atlantic Water became an online supplier. Mid Atlantic Water is a family company; every recommendation on this site is based on what actually failed in the field and what fixed it. If you have a question this page did not answer, call 800-460-5810 or text him at 443-277-2204.

Aidan answers calls and texts 8 AM to 5 PM Eastern, every day.

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