Well Water Pressure Tank: The Complete Guide (Sizing, Types & Maintenance)
Well Water Pressure Tanks
Well Water Pressure Tank: The Complete Guide (Sizing, Types & Maintenance)
Your pressure tank is the heart of your entire well water system. It stores pressurized water, protects your pump from burning out, and delivers consistent flow to every fixture in your home. After 32 years installing and replacing thousands of pressure tanks, I can tell you that most well owners never think about this piece of equipment until something goes wrong. This guide covers everything: how pressure tanks work, what type you need, how to size one correctly, when to replace it, and how to maintain the one you have.
For the full picture on treating your well water after the pressure tank, start with our Complete Guide to Well Water Filtration Systems.
The Short Version
Here is what every well owner needs to know about pressure tanks:
- Every well system needs a pressure tank. Without one, your pump would cycle on and off every time you open a faucet, burning it out in a few years instead of lasting 15 to 25.
- Bladder tanks (like the Well-X-Trol Pro Series) are the industry standard for residential wells. They separate air and water with a replaceable rubber bladder, preventing waterlogging.
- Fiberglass/composite tanks (like the WellMate series) will never corrode and weigh about half as much as steel. Best choice if your water is acidic or you want easy installation.
- Size matters. An undersized tank causes rapid pump cycling. Most 2 to 4 bedroom homes need a tank in the 40 to 85 gallon range. See the sizing section below.
- Pressure switch settings (typically 30/50 or 40/60 psi) control when the pump turns on and off. Higher settings mean stronger shower pressure but more stress on plumbing.
- Signs of failure: Pump cycling on and off rapidly, water pressure that surges and drops, a tank that feels heavy or "dead" when tapped. These all point to a waterlogged tank that needs replacement.
- Quality tanks last 15 to 25+ years. Cheap tanks from box stores often fail in 5 to 7 years. The difference is bladder quality and steel thickness. Browse our full tank lineup.
What Pressure Tank Do You Need?
Answer 3 quick questions for a personalized recommendation
How many bedrooms does your home have?
This helps determine water demand and tank size
What is your water chemistry like?
Acidic water (low pH) can corrode steel tanks from the inside
What matters most to you?
There is no wrong answer here
How a Pressure Tank Works
A pressure tank does two things: it stores pressurized water so your pump does not have to run every time you open a faucet, and it maintains steady pressure throughout your plumbing system. Without one, your well pump would short-cycle (turn on and off repeatedly), which overheats the motor and shortens its life from decades to just a few years.
Here is the basic cycle:
- Pump fills the tank. When pressure drops to the "cut-in" point (for example, 30 psi on a 30/50 switch), the pump turns on and pushes water into the tank.
- Air compresses. As water enters, it compresses the air inside the tank (or inside the bladder). This compressed air is what actually pushes water through your pipes.
- Pump shuts off. When pressure reaches the "cut-out" point (50 psi on a 30/50 switch), the pump turns off. The tank now has a reserve of pressurized water.
- You use water. When you open a faucet, shower, or flush a toilet, the compressed air pushes stored water out of the tank without the pump running.
- The cycle repeats. Once pressure drops back to the cut-in point, the pump turns on again to refill the tank.
The amount of water the tank delivers between the pump's cut-in and cut-out pressure is called drawdown. This is the number that actually matters when sizing a tank, not the total gallon capacity printed on the label. A 44-gallon tank might only deliver 14 to 16 gallons of drawdown. The rest of the space is occupied by the air charge.
For a complete maintenance schedule covering your pressure tank and every other system in your well water setup, see our well water system maintenance guide.
Why "Gallon Capacity" Is Misleading
A 44-gallon pressure tank does not hold 44 gallons of usable water. The total capacity includes both the air charge and the water. Depending on the pressure settings, actual drawdown (usable water between pump cycles) is typically 30% to 40% of the rated capacity. Always size by drawdown, not total gallons.
The Air Charge: Why It Matters
The air inside the tank is what creates pressure. If the air charge is too low, the tank becomes "waterlogged" because water fills the entire tank with nothing to push it out. When this happens, the pump cycles on and off every few seconds. If the air charge is too high, you get very little drawdown because the air takes up too much space.
The correct pre-charge pressure is 2 psi below the cut-in pressure of your pressure switch. If your switch is set to 30/50, the pre-charge should be 28 psi. If your switch is set to 40/60, the pre-charge should be 38 psi. This is the single most important maintenance check on any pressure tank.
Types of Pressure Tanks
There are three basic designs. Each handles the air-water separation differently, and that difference determines longevity, maintenance, and cost.
For a complete pricing breakdown of pressure tanks and every other well water treatment component, read our well water treatment system cost guide.
1. Bladder Tanks (Steel Shell)
A bladder tank uses a flexible rubber bladder inside a steel shell. Water fills the bladder; air surrounds it between the bladder and the shell. The bladder keeps air and water completely separated, which prevents waterlogging and eliminates the need for periodic air recharging that older tank designs required.
The Well-X-Trol Pro Series by Amtrol is the gold standard. Amtrol invented the bladder tank in the 1960s, and the Pro Series uses a thicker, more durable bladder than their standard line. The steel shell is heavier gauge, and the tank comes with a stainless steel system connection. These are the tanks that professional well drillers and plumbers install on new construction.
- Pros: Reliable air-water separation, long lifespan (15 to 25+ years for Pro Series), replaceable bladder on some models, industry-proven design
- Cons: Heavier than fiberglass, steel can corrode if the bladder fails and raw water contacts the shell, higher quality models cost more upfront
- Best for: Most residential well systems with neutral to slightly acidic water (pH 6.5+)
2. Diaphragm Tanks
A diaphragm tank uses a flat rubber membrane (diaphragm) permanently bonded to the inside of the tank, dividing it into an air chamber and a water chamber. Unlike a bladder, the diaphragm cannot be replaced. When it fails, the entire tank needs to be replaced.
These are the tanks you typically find at big box stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, Menards) in the $200 to $500 range. They work, but the thinner materials and non-replaceable diaphragm mean a shorter overall lifespan.
- Pros: Lower upfront cost, widely available at retail stores, adequate for basic residential use
- Cons: Diaphragm cannot be replaced (whole tank must be swapped when it fails), thinner steel, shorter lifespan (5 to 10 years typical), smaller drawdown per gallon of total capacity
- Best for: Budget-conscious installations, rental properties, or temporary solutions
3. Fiberglass / Composite Tanks
Fiberglass composite tanks use a wound fiberglass shell instead of steel. They contain a bladder similar to steel bladder tanks, but the composite construction makes them completely corrosion-proof. They weigh roughly half of what a comparable steel tank weighs.
The WellMate series is the leading composite tank. These are particularly valuable if your water is acidic (low pH), because even with a bladder, a pinhole leak in a steel tank's bladder will expose the steel to corrosive water. A WellMate tank does not care. No steel, no corrosion.
- Pros: Cannot corrode, about 50% lighter than steel (easier to install), long lifespan, excellent for acidic or aggressive water chemistry
- Cons: Similar price to premium steel tanks, not as widely available, some plumbers are less familiar with them
- Best for: Acidic water (pH below 7), DIY installations (lighter weight), coastal environments, any situation where corrosion is a concern
4. Air-Over-Water Tanks (Galvanized, No Bladder)
The original pressure tank design, dating back decades. These are simple galvanized steel tanks with no bladder or diaphragm. Air sits directly on top of the water. Over time, the water absorbs the air, the tank becomes waterlogged, and you have to add air back in manually (or with an air volume control device).
If you have one of these, it was likely installed 20+ years ago. They are no longer manufactured for residential use, and for good reason. Do not replace an air-over-water tank with another air-over-water tank. Upgrade to a bladder or composite tank.
- Pros: Simple design, no bladder to fail
- Cons: Waterlogging requires constant air recharging, galvanized steel corrodes, poor efficiency, large footprint, outdated technology
- Best for: Nothing. If you have one, it is time to replace it.
Aidan's Take
For 90% of residential well systems, a steel bladder tank (Well-X-Trol Pro Series) is the right choice. If your water is acidic or you want the lightest possible tank for DIY installation, go with a WellMate composite. Either way, skip the cheap diaphragm tanks at the big box stores. You will replace them twice in the time a Pro Series tank is still running.
👉 Compare every tank type with real pricing in our Best Pressure Tank Buyer's Guide.
Curious about fiberglass? Read WellMate Pressure Tanks: Fiberglass vs Steel for a deep dive on when composite tanks are worth the premium.
Sizing Your Pressure Tank
Getting the size right is critical. An undersized pressure tank causes the pump to short-cycle, which burns out the motor prematurely. An oversized tank costs a bit more upfront but gives you longer pump life, more stored water between cycles, and better pressure consistency.
There is no real downside to going bigger. As I tell customers: if you are going to sell the house at some point, go with the bigger tank. The next owner might have a larger family.
The Sizing Formula
The proper way to size a pressure tank is based on your well pump's flow rate (gallons per minute) and the desired minimum run time for the pump (typically 1 minute). The formula:
Drawdown Needed = Pump Flow Rate (GPM) x 1 minute
A 10 GPM pump needs at least 10 gallons of drawdown to prevent short-cycling
Then match that drawdown number to a tank that provides at least that much usable water at your pressure switch settings.
Quick Sizing Guide by Home Size
| Home Size | Typical Pump | Minimum Drawdown | Recommended Tank |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-2 bedrooms, 1 bath | 1/2 HP (5-7 GPM) | 5-7 gallons | WX-202 or WM-6 |
| 2-3 bedrooms, 1-2 baths | 3/4 HP (8-10 GPM) | 8-10 gallons | WX-203 or WM-12 |
| 3-4 bedrooms, 2-3 baths | 1 HP (10-14 GPM) | 10-14 gallons | WX-203 or WM-14WB |
| 4-5 bedrooms, 3+ baths | 1.5 HP (14-18 GPM) | 14-18 gallons | WX-205 or WX-250 |
| 5+ bedrooms, high demand | 2+ HP (18-25 GPM) | 18-25 gallons | WX-302 or WX-350 |
Why You Should Size Up
I always recommend going one size larger than the minimum. Here is why:
- Fewer pump cycles. A larger tank stores more water between cycles, which means the pump runs less often. Fewer cycles = longer pump life.
- Better pressure consistency. More drawdown means pressure stays higher longer before the pump needs to kick on.
- Water treatment equipment. If you have (or plan to add) an iron filter, acid neutralizer, or water softener, these systems backwash using your well water. A larger tank ensures there is enough reserve during backwash cycles.
- Resale value. If you ever sell the home, the next owner might have a larger family. A bigger tank is a selling point, and the cost difference between sizes is minimal compared to the total system cost.
Can a Pressure Tank Be Too Big?
Practically, no. The only theoretical concern is pumping the well dry, which is extremely rare with a properly drilled well. A bigger tank simply means the pump runs longer per cycle (more water to fill) but runs less frequently. For the vast majority of residential wells, bigger is better.
👉 For the full sizing breakdown with charts, formulas, and our interactive calculator, see our Pressure Tank Sizing Guide.
Pressure Switch Settings: 30/50 vs 40/60 vs 20/40
The pressure switch is the device mounted on or near the pressure tank that tells the pump when to turn on and off. The two numbers represent the cut-in pressure (pump turns on) and cut-out pressure (pump turns off). Here is how the three common settings compare:
Older systems, low-flow wells, or gravity-fed situations. Rarely used in modern installations. If your system is set to 20/40, you may feel low pressure at upper-floor fixtures.
The factory default for most pressure tanks and switches. Provides good pressure for single-story and most two-story homes. Pre-charge the tank to 28 psi. This is what we recommend for most installations.
Stronger pressure for multi-story homes or homes with long pipe runs. Pre-charge the tank to 38 psi. Note: higher pressure means slightly less drawdown from the same tank, and more stress on plumbing fittings.
Which Setting Should You Use?
- 30/50: The right choice for most homes. Single-story, two-story with reasonable pipe runs, and any home where current pressure feels adequate. This is the default, and there is usually no reason to change it.
- 40/60: Consider this if you have a three-story home, long pipe runs from the tank to fixtures, or if you just prefer stronger shower pressure. Be aware that this puts more wear on plumbing connections and reduces tank drawdown by about 15%.
- 20/40: Only used on older or low-capacity wells where higher pressure settings would exceed the pump's capability. If your system is running at 20/40 and you want more pressure, the solution is usually a pump upgrade, not just a switch change.
Changing Your Pressure Switch? Adjust the Tank Pre-Charge Too
If you change from a 30/50 switch to a 40/60 switch (or vice versa), you must also adjust the air pre-charge in the tank. The pre-charge should always be 2 psi below the cut-in pressure. Mismatched pre-charge and switch settings cause rapid cycling, reduced drawdown, and premature bladder wear.
Pre-Charge Pressure Reference
| Pressure Switch Setting | Cut-In (Pump ON) | Cut-Out (Pump OFF) | Correct Pre-Charge |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20/40 | 20 psi | 40 psi | 18 psi |
| 30/50 | 30 psi | 50 psi | 28 psi |
| 40/60 | 40 psi | 60 psi | 38 psi |
👉 For step-by-step adjustment instructions and troubleshooting, see our Pressure Switch Guide.
Signs of a Failing Pressure Tank
Pressure tanks do not fail overnight. They give you warning signs, usually for weeks or months before total failure. The problem is that most homeowners do not know what to look for. Here are the five most common signs:
Rapid Pump Cycling
The pump clicks on and off every few seconds or every time you use water. This is the number one symptom of a waterlogged tank. The bladder has failed and the tank has no air cushion, so there is zero drawdown. The pump is doing all the work in real time.
Pressure Surges and Drops
Water pressure fluctuates noticeably while you are using it. Strong pressure for a moment, then a drop, then strong again. This "pulsing" means the tank cannot maintain consistent pressure between pump cycles.
Tank Feels Abnormally Heavy
A healthy pressure tank should feel lighter at the top (air side) and heavier at the bottom (water side). If the entire tank feels uniformly heavy from top to bottom, it is waterlogged. The bladder has ruptured and water has filled the air chamber.
Tank Is Over 15 Years Old
Even quality tanks have a finite lifespan. If your tank is approaching 15 to 20 years, start monitoring it more closely. Cheap tanks from big box stores may only last 5 to 7 years. Check the manufacturing date on the label.
Visible Rust or Corrosion
Rust on the exterior of a steel tank, especially near the bottom or around the system connection, means the shell is degrading. Interior corrosion (from a failed bladder exposing steel to water) is even worse, because you cannot see it until the tank leaks.
Air Sputtering from Faucets
Bursts of air mixed with water when you turn on a faucet can indicate a ruptured bladder. Water and air that should be separated are now mixing inside the tank and both come out when you draw water.
The Knock Test
A quick way to check your tank: knock on it at different heights with your knuckles.
- Healthy tank: Hollow, ringing sound at the top (air space). Solid, dull thud at the bottom (water). Clear transition point between the two.
- Waterlogged tank: Dull thud everywhere, top to bottom. No hollow sound at all. This tank has no air charge and needs to be replaced or, at minimum, inspected and recharged.
Before You Replace: Check the Pre-Charge First
Not every "waterlogged" tank actually has a failed bladder. Sometimes the air charge has simply leaked down over time. Before buying a new tank, turn off the pump, drain the tank completely, and check the pre-charge with a tire pressure gauge on the air valve (usually at the top of the tank). If you can bring it back to the correct pressure and it holds, the bladder may still be fine. If the pressure drops again quickly, the bladder has a leak and the tank needs replacement.
👉 Walk through each problem with our Pressure Tank Troubleshooting Guide — covers waterlogging, short cycling, low pressure, and more.
Pressure Tank Maintenance Guide
The good news: pressure tanks require very little maintenance. The bad news: most homeowners do zero maintenance, and that is how a tank that could last 20 years fails in 10. Here is the annual maintenance schedule I recommend:
Annual Maintenance Checklist
| Task | Frequency | How To |
|---|---|---|
| Check pre-charge pressure | Every 12 months | Turn off the pump. Run a faucet until water stops flowing (drain the tank). Check the air valve at the top with a standard tire gauge. Should read 2 psi below your cut-in pressure (28 psi for a 30/50 switch). |
| Inspect for rust or moisture | Every 12 months | Look at the shell, especially the bottom and around the system connection. Any rust, weeping, or mineral buildup is a sign of trouble. Wipe the exterior and check again in a week. |
| Listen for rapid cycling | Ongoing | Stand near the tank while someone runs water in the house. The pump should run for at least 30 seconds to a minute before shutting off. If it clicks on and off every few seconds, investigate immediately. |
| Test the pressure switch | Every 2-3 years | With a pressure gauge on the tank, watch the pump cycle. Verify it cuts in and cuts out at the correct pressures. Replace the switch if the readings are erratic or the contacts are pitted. |
| Check the relief valve | Every 12 months | If your system has a pressure relief valve, lift the lever briefly to ensure it operates. This valve prevents dangerous over-pressurization if the switch fails. |
How to Check and Adjust Pre-Charge Pressure
This is the single most important maintenance task. Here is the step-by-step process:
- Turn off the pump. Flip the breaker or switch that powers the well pump.
- Drain the tank. Open a faucet (preferably a hose bib or laundry faucet near the tank) and let it run until water stops flowing completely.
- Locate the air valve. It looks like a tire valve stem, usually located at the top of the tank under a plastic cap.
- Check the pressure. Use a standard tire pressure gauge. Note the reading.
- Adjust if needed. If the pressure is low, add air with a bicycle pump or small compressor. If it is high, press the valve core briefly to release some air. Target: 2 psi below cut-in pressure.
- Turn the pump back on. Close the faucet, restore power, and let the system pressurize normally.
Never Check Pre-Charge With the Tank Pressurized
You must drain the tank completely before checking or adjusting the air charge. If you check it while the tank is full of pressurized water, the gauge will read the system pressure, not the actual pre-charge pressure. This gives you a false reading and you could over-inflate or under-inflate the bladder.
Expected Lifespan by Tank Type
| Tank Type | Typical Lifespan | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Well-X-Trol Pro Series (steel bladder) | 15-25+ years | Thicker bladder, heavy-gauge steel. With annual pre-charge checks, these routinely last 20+ years. |
| WellMate (fiberglass composite) | 15-20+ years | No corrosion risk. Lifespan is limited only by the bladder, not the shell. |
| Standard diaphragm tanks (big box store) | 5-10 years | Thinner materials, non-replaceable diaphragm. Expect to replace these multiple times over the life of a well. |
| Air-over-water (galvanized, no bladder) | 10-15 years (if maintained) | Requires constant air recharging. Most fail from corrosion long before the shell integrity is compromised. |
Where the Pressure Tank Fits in Your Well System
This is one of the most common questions I get, and the answer is straightforward: the pressure tank comes first, immediately after the well pump. Everything else connects after it.
Here is the correct installation order for a complete well water treatment system:
Not every home needs all of these components. Many homes only need a pressure tank and one or two treatment systems. The key principle is: the pressure tank always comes first. Treatment equipment goes after it.
Why the Pressure Tank Must Be First
- Treatment equipment needs consistent pressure to function properly. Iron filters, softeners, and neutralizers all rely on steady water pressure to backwash, regenerate, and meter water correctly. The pressure tank provides that.
- Pump protection. Treatment equipment creates back-pressure. Without the tank to absorb pressure fluctuations, the pump cycles erratically.
- Water storage buffer. During a backwash cycle (which can use 50+ gallons), the tank and pump work together to supply enough water. Without a properly sized tank, the backwash can drop house pressure to nothing.
For detailed guidance on choosing each component in the treatment sequence, see our Complete Guide to Well Water Filtration Systems. If you are dealing with iron specifically, our Complete Guide to Iron Filters covers everything from testing to sizing.
The pressure tank is the starting point of any well water treatment setup. For the full equipment sequence from pressure tank to UV, see our guide on the correct order for well water treatment systems.
MAW's Recommended Pressure Tanks
We carry two product lines: the Well-X-Trol Pro Series (steel bladder) and the WellMate series (fiberglass composite). Both are professional-grade. Here is an honest comparison:
Well-X-Trol Pro Series (Steel Bladder)
| Model | Total Capacity | Best For | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| WX-202 Pro Series | 26 gallons | 1-2 bedroom homes, low water demand | $1,095 |
| WX-203 Pro Series | 44 gallons | 2-4 bedroom homes (most popular) | $1,295 |
| WX-205 Pro Series | 85 gallons | 4-5 bedrooms, high demand, treatment systems | $1,695 |
| WX-250 Pro Series | 44 gallons (horizontal) | Low-clearance spaces, crawl spaces | $1,695 |
| WX-302 Pro Series | 86 gallons | Large homes, multiple treatment systems | $1,695 |
| WX-350 Pro Series | 119 gallons | Largest residential, estates, light commercial | $2,295 |
WellMate (Fiberglass Composite)
| Model | Total Capacity | Best For | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| WM-6 | 20 gallons | Small homes, acidic water, DIY install | $1,095 |
| WM-12 | 35 gallons | Mid-size homes, acidic water | $1,295 |
| WM-14WB | 47 gallons | Larger homes, acidic water, corrosive environments | $1,495 |
Constant Pressure
| Model | Type | Best For | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| WX1-250 Constant Pressure | Variable-speed pump + tank system | Homeowners who want city-like pressure consistency from a well | $2,195 |
Learn more about how these systems work and who needs one in our Constant Pressure Systems Guide.
How to Choose Between Steel and Fiberglass
| Factor | Well-X-Trol (Steel) | WellMate (Fiberglass) |
|---|---|---|
| Corrosion resistance | Bladder protects steel, but a bladder failure exposes steel to water | Cannot corrode, regardless of water chemistry |
| Weight | Heavier (may need two people for larger models) | About 50% lighter (easier DIY install) |
| Durability | Extremely durable, industry-proven for 60+ years | Very durable, newer technology with growing track record |
| Best for acidic water | Works well if bladder stays intact | Superior choice for pH below 7 |
| Price | $1,095 to $2,295 | $1,095 to $1,495 |
| Aidan's pick | Default recommendation for most homes | Recommended when water is acidic or weight matters |
See the full pricing breakdown: Pressure Tank Cost Guide (2026)
What Our Customers Say
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a well water pressure tank last?
It depends entirely on quality. Cheap diaphragm tanks from big box stores typically last 5 to 7 years. Mid-range tanks last 8 to 12 years. Professional-grade tanks like the Well-X-Trol Pro Series and WellMate composites routinely last 15 to 25+ years with basic annual maintenance (checking the pre-charge pressure once a year). The biggest factor is bladder quality and whether the tank is properly sized for the system.
How much does it cost to replace a well pressure tank?
A quality replacement tank costs between $1,095 and $2,295 depending on size. If you hire a plumber to install it, expect $200 to $500 for labor on top of the tank cost. The total installed cost for a mid-range professional-grade tank is typically $1,500 to $2,000. Cheap tanks from retail stores cost $200 to $500 for the tank itself, but you will likely replace them two or three times in the span a quality tank would still be working.
What happens when a well pressure tank goes bad?
The bladder or diaphragm fails, and the tank becomes waterlogged. Without an air cushion, there is no drawdown. The pump cycles on and off every few seconds (called short-cycling or rapid cycling), which burns out the pump motor, wastes electricity, and delivers inconsistent water pressure. A waterlogged tank cannot be "fixed" by adding air. The bladder has failed and the tank needs replacement.
What size pressure tank do I need for my home?
Size the tank based on your pump's flow rate. A 10 GPM pump needs at least 10 gallons of drawdown. For most 2 to 4 bedroom homes with a 3/4 to 1 HP pump, a 44-gallon tank (like the WX-203) is the right fit. Larger homes with 5+ bedrooms or high-demand features should go with an 85-gallon tank or larger. Always size up if you are unsure. See the full sizing guide above.
Can you put too big of a pressure tank on a well?
For practical purposes, no. A larger tank means the pump runs for a longer duration per cycle but cycles less frequently. This is actually better for pump longevity. The only theoretical concern is pumping the well dry, but a properly drilled residential well with adequate recovery rate will not have this issue. Bigger is almost always better when it comes to pressure tanks.
What should the air pressure be in my well tank?
The air pre-charge should be set to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure of your pressure switch. For a 30/50 switch (the most common setting), the pre-charge should be 28 psi. For a 40/60 switch, it should be 38 psi. Always check the pre-charge with the pump off and the tank completely drained. Check it once a year as part of routine maintenance.
What is the difference between a bladder tank and a diaphragm tank?
Both separate air and water inside the tank, but they do it differently. A bladder tank uses a flexible rubber bag (bladder) that water fills. The air stays between the bladder and the shell. On some models, the bladder can be replaced. A diaphragm tank uses a flat rubber membrane permanently bonded inside the tank. When the diaphragm fails, the entire tank must be replaced. Bladder tanks generally last longer and provide better performance.
Do I need a pressure tank if I have a constant pressure system?
Yes, but a smaller one. Constant pressure systems use a variable-speed pump controller that adjusts pump speed to match demand, maintaining steady pressure. They still need a small pressure tank to prevent the pump from cycling at very low flow rates (like a single faucet dripping). The WX1-250 Constant Pressure system includes the appropriately sized tank.
Should the pressure tank go before or after my water treatment equipment?
Before. Always before. The pressure tank goes immediately after the well pump, and all treatment equipment (sediment filter, iron filter, acid neutralizer, water softener, UV system) goes after the tank. Treatment systems need consistent pressure to function correctly, and the pressure tank provides that. See the system order diagram above.
Is a fiberglass pressure tank better than a steel one?
It depends on your water chemistry. For neutral or treated water (pH 7+), a steel bladder tank like the Well-X-Trol Pro Series is the industry standard and has a 60+ year track record. For acidic water (pH below 7), a fiberglass composite tank like the WellMate series is the better choice because it cannot corrode. Fiberglass tanks also weigh about half as much, making them easier to install. Both are excellent tanks with long lifespans.
Keep Reading: Pressure Tank Guides
Not Sure Which Tank Is Right for Your Well?
Call Aidan. He will ask about your home size, water test results, and existing equipment, then recommend the right tank and size. No sales pressure, just straight answers.
Call Aidan: 800-460-5810Or browse the complete well tank collection