Acid Neutralizers for Well Water in Maryland (Sizing, Cost, and Best System)
Acid Neutralizers for Well Water in Maryland
(Sizing, Cost, and Best System)
Last updated: January 2026
Written by Aidan (Mid Atlantic Water)
32 years installing, repairing, sizing and shipping whole-home well water systems. I’m hands-on with this stuff every week.
Quick summary: If your well water pH is below 7.0, it’s acidic. Acidic water eats plumbing and fixtures. A whole-home acid neutralizer is the cleanest fix for most Maryland wells. For most homes, 2.5 cu ft is the most recommended size because it handles demand well and reduces top-off frequency.
If this is you → do this
- pH 6.0 to 6.9 and low iron → Non-backwashing upflow calcite neutralizer (simple, no drain, septic-friendly).
- pH below ~5.5 → Use a calcite + Flomag (magnesium oxide) blend (calcite alone is often too slow at very low pH).
- Iron or heavy sediment → Backwashing neutralizer (and if you are backwashing, Vortech is preferred for higher flow and more effective cleaning).
- On septic → Backwashing can be fine, but make sure your septic system is in good working condition and can handle the extra discharge. Avoid backwashing unless iron/sediment forces it.
We’ve fixed this exact problem all over Maryland
We’ve helped over 2,000 homeowners across Maryland fix their low pH (acidic) well water since 1997. The goal here is simple: give you the best solution, and keep you from wasting money on the wrong setup. This industry can make it sound confusing. It’s really not.
The 3 warning signs you probably need an acid neutralizer
- Metallic taste (especially in homes with copper plumbing).
- Blue-green stains in tubs and showers (copper corrosion).
- Pinhole leaks, failing shower heads, running toilets, degraded rubber seals.
If your home was built before 1986 and has copper plumbing, there’s another reason to take this seriously: older copper lines were often joined with lead solder. Acidic water can speed up corrosion issues. Don’t guess. Test the water.
What happens if you don’t fix acidic water
Acidic water doesn’t “maybe” cause damage. It steadily corrodes plumbing and fixtures, then you start paying for repairs: valve failures, toilets that won’t stop running, shower heads clogging, water heater issues, and eventually leaks.
Goal of treatment: bring pH into a safe, neutral range so you eliminate corrosion to plumbing, fixtures, and water-using appliances.
Why acidic well water is common in Maryland
Based on Google search data, low pH (acidic) water makes up about 10% of the water-related issues homeowners in Maryland actively search for.
Maryland has a lot of private wells and a lot of older plumbing. Acidic water shows up everywhere: rural areas, older neighborhoods, and homes with copper that should have lasted longer than it did.
What “pH” means in plain English
The pH scale runs 0 to 14. 7.0 is neutral. Anything below 7 is acidic. The lower the number, the more aggressive the water is.
pH is logarithmic. Water at 6.0 is 10x more acidic than 7.0. Water at 5.0 is 100x more acidic than 7.0.
The best solution: a whole-home acid neutralizer
The solution to acidic well water is an acid neutralizer. It’s a tank filled with food-grade calcite limestone. You install it right after the pressure tank. As water passes through, it raises the pH naturally and helps stop corrosion.
Non-backwashing vs backwashing: which one is best?
| Type | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Non-backwashing (upflow) | Most Maryland wells with low pH and low iron | No drain, no electricity, simple install, no backwash water dumped into septic | Not the best fit if you have heavy iron or heavy sediment |
| Backwashing | Homes with high iron or heavy sediment where media needs cleaning | Helps prevent media fouling in tougher water | Needs electricity + drain line, dumps 100 to 150 gallons per cycle, more moving parts. If you’re on septic, ensure it’s in good working condition and can handle the extra discharge. |
Our default recommendation (when iron is not a problem) is the non-backwashing upflow neutralizer. Simple. Fewer parts. Less hassle.
Vortech vs gravel-bedded tanks
You’ll see two main styles: traditional gravel-bedded tanks and Vortech-style tanks. Vortech allows higher flow rates and more efficient, more effective backwashing, which helps keep the media bed cleaner and more consistent over time. If we are building a backwashing neutralizer, Vortech is our preferred platform.
Video: how an acid neutralizer works
If you want the quick walkthrough, watch this:
How to size an acid neutralizer for your home
Sizing is based on three things: (1) your pH, (2) how many bathrooms can run at once, and (3) how many people live in the home.
Simple sizing guide (based on pH)
| pH Range | Typical Media | Typical Size | My take |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6.0 to 6.9 | Calcite | 1.5 to 2.5 cu ft | Works in many homes. If you want lower maintenance and better handling of demand, go bigger. |
| 5.5 to 6.0 | Calcite (often upsized) | 2.0 to 2.5 cu ft | 2.5 cu ft is the most recommended for most Maryland homes because it is the safe, low-hassle pick. |
| Below ~5.5 | Calcite + Flomag blend | Needs review (often 2.5 cu ft+) | Below ~5.5, calcite alone is often not enough. A calcite + Flomag mix is typically used to raise pH fast enough and protect plumbing. |
Most homeowners don’t want constant maintenance. That’s why the 2.5 cu ft unit is the most common choice for us. More media usually means less frequent top-offs.
If you want us to size it: send us your pH, how many bathrooms, and how many people live in the home.
How to test for acidic water (recommended)
Do not buy equipment first and “hope it fixes it.” Test first.
Minimum test
- pH
- Iron and sediment (helps decide non-backwashing vs backwashing)
Smart test
- pH
- alkalinity
- hardness
- iron and manganese
- TDS
- copper (if you have copper plumbing and symptoms)
- lead (especially if your home is older or you suspect old solder)
You can start with a reliable home test kit for pH. For metals like lead, use a state-certified lab. If you want help, contact us and we’ll tell you exactly what to test based on your setup.
Note: Heated acidic water can be more aggressive than cold water and can shorten the life of water heaters and fixtures.
Maryland case examples (what we see most often)
These are representative Maryland scenarios we deal with. Your exact sizing comes from test results and flow needs.
| Area | What the homeowner noticed | Plumbing | Fix | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Central MD (older subdivision on well) | Blue-green tub stains, metallic taste | Copper | Non-backwashing acid neutralizer | Stops the corrosion problem when sized correctly. |
| Western MD (rural well home) | Pinhole leaks, fixture failures | Copper | Larger media capacity neutralizer | Bigger units reduce maintenance headaches. |
| Southern MD (well + septic) | Corrosion signs and plumbing repairs stacking up | Mixed plumbing | Non-backwashing neutralizer (septic-friendly) | On septic, avoid dumping backwash water into the system unless your septic is in good working order and you truly need backwashing. |
How much an acid neutralizer costs in Maryland
For most Maryland homes, a whole-home acid neutralizer system typically costs:
- Equipment: $1000 to $1,800 depending on size and media
- Professional install: $2,500 to $4,500+
- DIY install: saves most or all labor cost
Operating cost is low. The main expense is periodic media top-off, which depends on how acidic your water is and how much water your home uses.
DIY install vs hiring a local installer
If you’re somewhat handy, you can install a non-backwashing acid neutralizer in about 2 to 3 hours. It’s basically like swapping in any inline tank: inlet, outlet, done.
DIY is a good fit if:
- You can shut off water, cut pipe, and make clean connections.
- You have room right after the pressure tank.
- You’re comfortable lifting 50lb bags of calcite media and following a flush procedure.
Hire a pro if:
- Your plumbing is tight, corroded, or you need rework to add bypass valves.
- You’re not sure where to tie it in.
- You just don’t want the headache.
The reason people DIY is simple: you can save $1,000+ in labor on the same equipment. We support DIY installs with video guides and a tech support line.
FAQ (5 common questions)
1) Will an acid neutralizer remove iron, sulfur, or bacteria?
No. It’s for pH correction. If you have iron, sulfur, or bacteria, you treat those separately (or with a properly designed combo system).
2) Does an acid neutralizer add anything to the water?
It dissolves a small amount of calcite as it neutralizes. That’s the point. It can slightly increase hardness, depending on your water.
3) How often do I need to add more calcite?
It depends on how low your pH is and how much water you use. Check the media level periodically. Most homeowners review it at least once a year.
4) Where does it get installed?
Right after the well pressure tank, before the water heater and before most other treatment equipment. If you have a softener, placement can depend on your full water chemistry.
5) Should I use a backwashing neutralizer?
Only if your water has high iron or heavy sediment that will foul the media. Otherwise, non-backwashing upflow is simpler, cheaper to run, and easier on septic systems.
On septic: If you do need a backwashing system, make sure your septic system is in good working condition and sized/maintained properly to handle the added discharge.
Bottom line
If your well water is acidic, you fix it with an acid neutralizer. The only real decisions are type and size.
- Most homes: non-backwashing upflow calcite
- Most recommended size: 2.5 cu ft
- Below ~5.5 pH: calcite + Flomag blend
- Iron or heavy sediment: backwashing neutralizer (Vortech preferred)
Want a straight answer on what you need?
Send us your pH, number of bathrooms, and how many people live in the home. We’ll tell you what size makes sense and what to avoid.
Shop acid neutralizers | Contact Mid Atlantic Water
Safety note: This article is general education. If you suspect lead, use a certified lab and follow local guidance. If you’re not comfortable with plumbing work, hire a qualified installer.